Inhabitants of the Paphos area have continued to wear the Sayia until relatively recently. These were made from cotton with green, red or yellow stripes on a cream background, although blue with white stripes was also available. The apron was decorated in the distinctive patterns of Phitiotika, the richly woven embroidery made in the Phiti area in Paphos.
Many females in the rural areas wore the Foustani, which was a one piece dress with a pleated waist. Inhabitants of the mountain areas would make these in a fabric made from wool and cotton, for extra warmth, and usually in dark muted colours. In contrast, those who lived in the Mesaoria Plain wore dresses in jewel bright colours of red, yellow, green and orange. As many village girls would only possess a couple of Foustania in a whole lifetime they were cleverly designed with pleated waistlines to allow for pregnancy and later, for middle age spread.
The low cut neckline not only revealed the pretty blouse beneath, but was also ideal for breastfeeding. Many village women would work long hours in the fields and orchards and would often lift up the hem of their Foustani and tuck it into their waist to give them more freedom of movement and to keep them cooler. Gradually as a woman grew older, and particularly on the death of her husband, she would wear black clothing every day. She would also wear a black headscarf, under which a second piece of material known as a Skoufoma was worn, this covered her hair, forehead and ears.
Slowly as manufactured textiles arrived on the island, and Cyprus began to manufacture clothes for export to Europe, women changed their traditional costumes for modern western styles. Today, except for a few inhabitants in the more remote areas, it is unlikely that you will catch a glimpse of a woman in traditional costume, but men wearing the famous Vraqkas are more easily spotted, especially in the hilly areas of the Paphos District.
The Vraqkas are baggy trousers made, as the popular Cypriot folk song explains, from ‘forty piches of cloth’ and folded with a large pleated bustle, tucked into a belt. A wide black cumber band was worn by older men, whilst younger men favoured bright colours. A small money pouch would be tucked inside.
The Vraqkas are worn with high leather boots or on festive occasions, with shoes and long black stockings.
Traditionally when a young man was to be married, his young bride would make a gift of new Vraqkas to him, woven by herself and her family. At wedding feasts it is customary for a song to be sung by the guests in praise of the large amount of cloth woven by the bride to make a fine pair of Vraqkas for her husband.
Although there is little difference in the style of Vraqkas throughout Cyprus the jackets worn did vary from one region to another. The sleeveless waistcoat was known as the Yilekko and the long sleeved jacket, the Zibouna. For everyday wear these were usually plain, and in rural areas were often made from the same Alatzi as the women’s dresses. Wedding jackets were made from beautiful black velvet and were highly embroidered with elaborate patterns and motifs of lions and birds.
The bridegroom’s costume was an important part of the wedding dowry and would be carefully made by his prospective bride along with a selection of domestic linen that would be carried to her new home in her dowry chest. Girls would start making items for their dowry chest from an early age, and these would include nightwear for herself and her future husband, and silk underwear and neckerchiefs for him. Its was widely believed that these items would bring good luck.