There is a legend that when Lazarus was raised from the dead he settled in Cyprus and became the first Bishop of Kitium (Larnaca). His feast day is the Saturday before Easter and young boys in the Larnaca district gather eggs for Easter which they donate to the Church for the poor.
As Good Friday approaches, the full glory of Easter can still be experienced. There is no need for a visitor to be shy of joining in or visiting the churches even if he or she is non-religious. Orthodox churches are marvellous places of Byzantine light and splendour. The atmosphere is informal and chatty.
On Good Friday beautifully decorated litters are prepared at the churches with spring flowers. An icon of Christ will lie there in state to symbolise the entombment.
After the evening service the clergy lead a procession through the streets. Everyone joins in as the priests chant and house-holders offer the congregation rosewater to refresh and perfume hands and faces.
Saturday is quiet and the resurrection service begins at midnight. A massive bonfire blazes before the church entrances. Young people create a devastating background for the Mass with firecrackers. Suddenly the church is plunged into darkness and the priest and cantors solemnly intone the anthem of resurrection. A huge paschal candle is blessed and lit; its light is passed outwards to the candles held by each member of the congregation. The church blazes with illumination and rivers of light stream around while the dramatic anthem calls of “Christos Anesti (Christ is Risen!) and the response of “Alithos Anesti” (He Has Risen Indeed!) pass from the priests to excited crowds and back.
Sunday dawns, the liturgy completed, and the biggest party of the year begins. Children bring out their coloured eggs and crack them with their friends. Each one hopes to have a champion egg which will out-crack the rest. The men start up their charcoal fires and women prepare salads and skewers packed with lamb. The sound of church chanting fades behind roars of laughter and the clinking of glasses banged together in friendship and goodwill. The men take over the cooking for the day and every village bursts at the seams with a crush of friends, relatives and tourists.
A special welcome is given to every stranger, whether he be from the next village or the next continent. No reserve should inhibit the tourist from accepting the endless requests to “Kopiaste” which means: come and join us. The invitation to share some food or at least a glass of brandy is warm and genuine. Hospitality to strangers is traditionally an iron rule in Cyprus and never more so than at Easter.
